By Saikat Biswas

The Manipuri handloom textile products are well known in Bangladesh for their elegant, exquisite and colourful design and texture by using organic material. The art of weaving occupies a very sacred place in the traditional life of Manipuri. Their ancient folklores and fables have provided Manipuri with innumerable examples of glorification on the art of weaving in this ethnic society. The distinct motifs skilfully depicted through stylish, artistic and decorative weaving designs which were really in high demand.
However different changes in socio-economic characters in Bangladesh have impacted the production of Manipuri handloom textile products; where people are exploring more on the low cost garments and textile products, technology shifting in garment industry, fast growing and changing taste of fashion, the absence of patron to access the market and financial backup as well as deprivation in getting fair price for their products are becoming potential threats for the existence of Manipuri handloom textile. Contemplating such realities many artisans left their occupation while those who are still continue have to struggle to keep their existence. Some are using low quality material such as low cost available synthetic yarn which compromising the quality of finish products. As a result, its quality and demand has been fallen sharply and artisans are struggling with financial issues as many of them have been assessed to be tied with the local money-lender and middlemen who provides loan for production.

In response to this, Oxfam initiated a pilot project promoting the traditional Manipuri Handloom textiles by exploring the original talent of women artisan through adding up innovation in heritage based design, improving weaving quality and establishing a linkage with the market and financial institutions. A total of 100 women artisan have been selected from 10 villages Komolgonj Upazilla of Mulovibazar District and 4 Para of Sylhet city areas during the need assessment and mini market survey. To implement this project at the field level, Oxfam has established a partnership with local organisation Ethnic Community Development Organisation (ECDO). At the same time a well known designer Mr. Chandra Shekhar Saha has agreed to extend his support in product design, on-job training and overall technical support of the project.

In this on-job training, the women artisans are introduced firstly with revisiting the original design then introducing the innovative ideas for new designs. Based upon their original skills and heritage style, the artisans are assigned to produce numbers of Saree, Orna, Khes, and Muffler, Bags etc and step by step improving the quality and using the original sixty twist cotton yarn with good quality of dying process. After completion of first assignment, the artisans are assigned to produce and weave products which are combination if their own traditional ‘Moirang’ pattern with a touch of new imaginative and fashionable designs. This process has built up the confident of the artisans by exploring their own artistic and creative talent and outlook.

On the other hand, some different issues and challenges have been identified while working intensively on this project: First, most of the artisans are weaving as a side job instead of doing it professionally as an inclusive livelihood option, thus professional continuity is missing here. Secondly, the artisans do not have any direct linkage with the market and marketing channel. Thirdly, the artisans do not have secured financial to buy raw material for the production, the investments are coming from the middlemen where artisans are working in exchange of labour wages. Fourthly, many artisans are now mostly using synthetic yarn low quality dying for a low production cost, which ultimately hampering the quality. Lastly, they do not have adequate consciousness, knowledge and skill on business plan.

Learning from these issues and challenges, a question might be raised, what are the potential for such endeavour of the project to retrieve the Manipuri Handloom? Despite of the significant fall of its quality in the last few years, the products are still having its fame and market demand. In addition to that, all the Manipuri artisans are women who have extraordinary skills and exceptional talents which need to be supported. At the same time, Manipuri handloom is a heritage of weaving history and part of diversified culture, which also a symbol of ethnic identity and pluralistic society in Bangladesh. This immemorial handloom also depicts an image of folklore and fable that is also culturally significant that has been carried throughout generations. Adding up to those, by supporting the livelihoods of these artisans it will help eradicating their poverty.

Dexterity of these women artisans without any sophisticated machinery can produce lustrous, attractive and elegant handloom products which give a lasting and fascinating effect. That’s why, if the state, institutions and individuals can devote their attention to support this sector, the art and craftsmanship of Manipuri handloom might have the chance to return to its glorious past towards reaching out a golden future. Ultimately, that will be contributing to build Women Economic Leadership in the society.

* The story is written by Saikat Biswas, Project Coordinator, Oxfam, Bangladesh.